Showing posts with label exumas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label exumas. Show all posts

Friday, July 5

All in a days work

It was time to leave the beautiful Exuma Islands and make our way to Eluethera.  We loved the Exumas and would have loved to spend a lot more time exploring the rest of the islands.  But we had to keep moving and there was no way we could see all of the 700 Bahamian islands!  Even if we tried real hard.  I have said this before and I'll say it again, we now understand how people can spend an entire cruising season or years exploring the Bahamas.  It's a tough choice sometimes and more often than not, we reluctantly leave wishing we could stay longer.

On to Eluethera; the two mile wide, pencil thin island that means "Freedom" in Greek.  That's a fitting name since it was promised to be free from cruise ships and crowds, just like we like it.  It is natural, untamed and much of it still undeveloped.  Eluethera is known for its pink sand beaches as well as the high cliffs on the eastern side, where the Atlantic Ocean crashes onto the rocks.  We made our way across the Exuma Sound, starting at the crack of dawn and dropping the hook that afternoon in the southern end of Eluethera, called the Bite of Eluethera.  The 'Bite' just means shallow waters.

Fish on!  I never get tired of sharing our fish catching pictures and stories.  Sorry if it seems like we are shamelessly rubbing it in, gloating or just plain showing off.  Well, ok, perhaps we are not that sorry! The truth is, after arriving to the BVIs from Virginia we were known as the skunk boat.  We were the only boat that we knew of in the Salty Dawg Rally that didn't catch a single fish on the 1500 mile passage south.  Well we could't live with that!  So, we had to up our game and become serious about this fishing biz.  So after a lot of reading,  new gear and probing people for their fishing secrets we have become very successful cruising fisherman.  It's a lot of FUN for the whole family.  Everyone has a role.  

Notice Kate nonchalantly reading her book while Craig fights to reel in the fish.  She waits until the fish is just about ready to be pulled out of the water before she snaps into action.  Her role is to pour the rum into the gills.

Working hard in my pj's and bed head hair.  Geez!  My role is usually to slow the boat down and be an extra pair of hands if we catch multiple fish at once.

Isn't she a beauty?

I can't remember exactly how many we caught on this 70 mile jaunt from Warderick Wells to Eluethera.  I think it was 3 Mahi Mahi.  Not bad for a days work eh?

 I also did 2 loads of laundry (bucket & plunger style) and baked 2 loaves of whole wheat bread.  Not too shabby, if I do say so myself.

First stop:  Governor's Harbor

The big, well protected semi-circle anchorage was all but deserted except for our 2 boats and 2 dinghies


Walking through the cute town, we visited the 3 small grocery stores, the bakery and the hardware store.

Walking across to the eastern side of the island to the pink sand beach

One of the few gorgeous homes that dotted the street along the way.

Named one of the best beaches in the Bahamas

Can you see the pink hue?

Chatting with Porter about why he thinks the sand is pink.  He says it's from the sun - like a sun burn.  Perhaps it should apply sunscreen next time.  Really it's from the teeny tiny pieces of broken coral pounded by the surf.  There is more 'pink' near the waters edge.

Bathing beauties ready for their Sports Illustrated photo shoot

Even the best beaches have a nasty side (especially if it's a windward side).  Sad but true.  99.9 percent of the trash we find washed up on shore is plastic.  

Wow!


A simple game of poker anyone?

Near Gregory Town - that we didn't visit because the wind created a very rolly anchorage.  We were curious how an Airstream trailer wound up on this beautiful beach.  It will have to remain a mystery, because we never made it ashore to investigate.

Yummy oatmeal butterscotch cookies.

As we prepared to move to Spanish Wells, we zipped up to Glass Window.  You might be asking yourself why this is called Glass Window.  It doesn't look like much more than a bridge over water (no pun intended).  However, it used to be an extraordinary natural stone bridge connecting North Eluethera to the Mainland of Central Eluethera.  It is the narrowest part of the island with a striking color contrast from the sapphire blue of the Atlantic on one side and the aquamarine of the Exuma Sound on the other.  The natural stone arch was destroyed by a hurricane.  A modern, man made bridge stands in its place (also repeatedly destroyed by storms).

Walking along the road to view both sides from the bridge


The Caribbean side where we anchored our boats temporarily

The Atlantic side

Peering over the edge

photo courtesy Discover-Eluethera-Bahamas.com
Ariel image of the Glass Window bridge illustrating the phenomenal contrast between the two sides.  The lighter blue is very shallow at less than 10 feet deep.  The deep blue side drops from the cliffs to 300 feet, reaching 3000 feet at the drop off.  It was dramatic to be standing on the bridge and experience the power of the pounding surf smashing into the rocks and then turn around to complete silence and calmness.


Where everybody knows your name

There is a famous place in Warderick Wells were everyone goes to leave a little something to let those that follow know they were there.  It's called Boo Boo Hill and a piece of driftwood with your boat name is what you leave behind.  Leaving a piece of driftwood is a cruiser tradition commemorating your visit to the Exuma Land and Sea Park.  It just happens to be at the top of Boo Boo Hill, which is legendary.  It goes like this:  "On a wild, stormy day many years ago a luckless schooner sank off Wardwick Wells.  All souls perished in the disaster.  Not a single body was recovered for a Christian burial.  Local people say that if you climb to the crest of the hill at the bloom of the full moon, you can hear the voices of the lost souls singing in the wind".  And if you leave an offering to King Neptune on Boo Boo Hill, you'll be blessed with good luck on your voyages.  Heaven knows we could use all the luck we can get, so of course, we found a piece of driftwood and continued the tradition! The pile of driftwood is striking, with boat names carved, burned, painted or etched permanently for all to see.  The pile grows bigger each cruising season only to be knocked down and put to sea with each passing storm.  Who knows how long our driftwood will last in the pile.  It continues to get buried under each passing boat and will soon be at the bottom.  But we know we left our mark on Boo Boo Hill.

Liv proudly displaying our impressive piece of driftwood.  Craig carved it with a Dremel.  Does anyone notice anything amiss?  Perhaps the carver came down with a case of dyslexia?

Reading the posted signs along the trail

Hi Ho, Hi Ho....it's off to work we go....

Phew, we made it up the grueling climb - all 100 feet up the hill!

The girls find the perfect spot to rest our piece of driftwood

The blow holes near the driftwood pile.  Everyone waiting and watching for something to happen.

When we left the driftwood pile to take a peek at the blow holes, Olivia missed our exit down the path and thought we had headed back to the dinghies.  We noticed that Olivia was missing and started searching for her.  It was slightly nerve racking since there were jagged cliffs that dropped down into pounding surf.  But with the help of Patronus, the 9 of us spread out looking for her.  Chris spotted her down the hill, walking the trail back towards the dinghies.  Craig took off to fetch her and brang her back.  She was a little shook up and scared but had done the right thing.  This impacted her and inspired her to write about it.  Here is her story, in her words (not edited by mom, dad or sisters):


I was in Wardarick Wells.  We were hiking a hill.  My dad said we were leaving.  So I started my way down the hill then the group disappeared.  I tried to follow them.  I got half way to the boat.  I felt lost then I saw four people walk by.  Then I saw people and an orange backpack up on the hill then my dad screamed for me.  Then I found my family and then I found my friends.  Then we all went back to the boats.  So we can never do that in our lives again.  



Bryson filling up his shirt with air from the blow hole

The wind was howling, creating some powerful surf

The serene leeward side of the island

The curly tailed lizard is indigenous to the Bahamas

We met the captain of this research vessel as he was passing by our boat one afternoon.  We asked him if we could bring the kids on board to learn about what they were researching.   He was delighted to accommodate us that evening.

This boat is a unique extension of the Shedd Acquarium in Chicago.  It is used by zoos, aquariums, and universities around the country for collecting, research and educational purposes.  It has logged thousands of miles in Florida waters, the Bahamas and the Caribbean.

There happened to be a group of college biology students doing research on the Hutia.  A nocturnal rodent that looks like a little muskrat.  We never saw them in person, but we sure did see their evidence (poop) That is speed like a carpet all over the island!


A curious friend stopped by for a visit one afternoon

Craig and I out for a sail



Thursday, June 20

Lots-o-Love on Cambridge Cay

We moved to Cambridge Cay, which is only about 5 miles north of Compass Cay.  However, it is the southern most boundary of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.  This means no fishing but great snorkeling.  We took a mooring ball in the small channel that was big on current.  Unfortunately, it was hard to swim off the boat unless it was slack tide.  What else can I say that sets this apart from any other Exuma Cay?  The water was crystal clear, the sun was bright and the breeze was blowing.  Just another beautiful day in paradise.


Anything Goes being swung by the current

Mother's Day gifts of friendship bracelets, homemade cards, paper roses and a little something from my hubby

This was a tiny, sandy island that the kids raced around

Walking out on the spit of the little sandy island on our way back from snorkeling the Dundes Caves

A huge starfish from under the boat (don't worry, we put it back)

Yummy conch fritters

Enjoying a great dinner for Mother's Day (fresh caught fish of course, spiced pumpkin and bahamian rice and beans)

Kids enjoying their dinner on the bow 

Cutie pie - doesn't she look so grown up?

Love this bunch

Charlie's Angels??

Watching the sunset too

Goodnight Moon