Raining inside and out: Spanish Wells

We spent several days working our way up the inside, shallow waters of Southern Eleuthera, called the Bite.  There wasn't a whole lot to see or do, which was okay and it was a nice way to get to Spanish Wells without having to do another overnight sail.  Needless to say, it was time to go through the Cut at Current Island and sail farther north.  Just north of the tip of Eluethera is a small uninhabited island known as Current.  It comes by its name naturally when the tide comes in or goes out, the forces of nature push millions and millions of gallons through the narrow channel in jig time.  It was critical to time our passage perfectly through the cut at slack tide.  Our charts warned that a motoring sailboat may not make it through if it was going against the current.

Leaving the shallow waters of the Bite of Eluethera

A ferry waits for passengers on the Eluethera side of the cut

Spanish Wells Island is a small, oblong island only about 2000 feet by 9000 feet.  Adjacent to Spanish Wells is an even smaller, Russell Island.  Entering Spanish Wells Harbor was like driving down a narrow, two lane highway.

Colorful homes line the water

We were very impressed with the condition of all the fishing boats tied to the docks.  It was apparent that they took pride in their work.  These fishing boats bring in the majority of fish for the entire Bahamas.

Seaside takeout:  Conch fritters to go please.  We have to settle for cracked conch because she ran out of conch fritters.  

Erica teaches Kate about reflexology and meditation.  So good for the soul!

Liv and Porter spinning quarters

Browsing the local gift shop set up in someones garage

3 guesses for what this picture represents.  Well, maybe 1 guess.  It's pretty obvious, don't ya think?

I must preface this story with a rule we have on the boat, which is "NEVER open your back port window!" We have had this discussion with the girls before, many times.  The back port windows are strategically in a bad position on the boat.  It is right below the run off point for the entire top deck of the boat.  Further more, dirt gets trapped and can cause a leaky seal.  Sooo, to prevent a watery catastrophe, we keep those back windows closed at all times (we have one in our cabin as well).

It all started one morning, when Kate opened her back port window and didn't close it all the way.  In her defense (sort of), she 'closed' it but evidently didn't lock it down tight.  We left the boat for most of the day to explore the town of Spanish Wells.  While we were out, we were slammed with a huge thunderstorm that brought torrential rains.  We were feeling good about the fact that we had closed all hatches and windows.  That's the number one rule when leaving the boat - even on a clear and sunny day - you just never know.  We got back to the boat at the end of the day and Kate says, 'mom, my bed is a little wet'.  I say, innocently and understanding, ' well, the back window probably leaked some because it rained to so much'.  She then went on to explain that maybe it was a little more than a little wet.  I marched down there to find a bed that would have floated away if it could.  Their bed was SOAKED!  Everything was soaked.  All the books, pillows, stuffed animals, blankets, sheets, memory foam, mattress and even the engine compartment that resides under their bed, was SOAKED!  It was unbelievable.  Kate came clean and admitted that perhaps she forgot to lock her window closed.  YOU THINK??

It wouldn't have been so bad if the sun had come out and dry everything out.  But no, it continued to rain for days.  It was very difficult to get anything to dry out.

Kate and Porter, walking buddies through Spanish Wells

Visiting the local radio station as part of Porter's cub scouts requirements

Spanish Wells typical cottage.  We met the family renting this house.  They are fellow cruisers, with kids, working on getting their boat ship shape.

Rainy day games

Rain, rain, go away....notice the amount of water accumulating in the dinghy!  There was so much water that the fuel tanks were submerged.  Then imagine a window open on the boat.  Nuff said!

All in a days work

It was time to leave the beautiful Exuma Islands and make our way to Eluethera.  We loved the Exumas and would have loved to spend a lot more time exploring the rest of the islands.  But we had to keep moving and there was no way we could see all of the 700 Bahamian islands!  Even if we tried real hard.  I have said this before and I'll say it again, we now understand how people can spend an entire cruising season or years exploring the Bahamas.  It's a tough choice sometimes and more often than not, we reluctantly leave wishing we could stay longer.

On to Eluethera; the two mile wide, pencil thin island that means "Freedom" in Greek.  That's a fitting name since it was promised to be free from cruise ships and crowds, just like we like it.  It is natural, untamed and much of it still undeveloped.  Eluethera is known for its pink sand beaches as well as the high cliffs on the eastern side, where the Atlantic Ocean crashes onto the rocks.  We made our way across the Exuma Sound, starting at the crack of dawn and dropping the hook that afternoon in the southern end of Eluethera, called the Bite of Eluethera.  The 'Bite' just means shallow waters.

Fish on!  I never get tired of sharing our fish catching pictures and stories.  Sorry if it seems like we are shamelessly rubbing it in, gloating or just plain showing off.  Well, ok, perhaps we are not that sorry! The truth is, after arriving to the BVIs from Virginia we were known as the skunk boat.  We were the only boat that we knew of in the Salty Dawg Rally that didn't catch a single fish on the 1500 mile passage south.  Well we could't live with that!  So, we had to up our game and become serious about this fishing biz.  So after a lot of reading,  new gear and probing people for their fishing secrets we have become very successful cruising fisherman.  It's a lot of FUN for the whole family.  Everyone has a role.  

Notice Kate nonchalantly reading her book while Craig fights to reel in the fish.  She waits until the fish is just about ready to be pulled out of the water before she snaps into action.  Her role is to pour the rum into the gills.

Working hard in my pj's and bed head hair.  Geez!  My role is usually to slow the boat down and be an extra pair of hands if we catch multiple fish at once.

Isn't she a beauty?

I can't remember exactly how many we caught on this 70 mile jaunt from Warderick Wells to Eluethera.  I think it was 3 Mahi Mahi.  Not bad for a days work eh?

 I also did 2 loads of laundry (bucket & plunger style) and baked 2 loaves of whole wheat bread.  Not too shabby, if I do say so myself.

First stop:  Governor's Harbor

The big, well protected semi-circle anchorage was all but deserted except for our 2 boats and 2 dinghies

Walking through the cute town, we visited the 3 small grocery stores, the bakery and the hardware store.

Walking across to the eastern side of the island to the pink sand beach

One of the few gorgeous homes that dotted the street along the way.

Named one of the best beaches in the Bahamas

Can you see the pink hue?

Chatting with Porter about why he thinks the sand is pink.  He says it's from the sun - like a sun burn.  Perhaps it should apply sunscreen next time.  Really it's from the teeny tiny pieces of broken coral pounded by the surf.  There is more 'pink' near the waters edge.

Bathing beauties ready for their Sports Illustrated photo shoot

Even the best beaches have a nasty side (especially if it's a windward side).  Sad but true.  99.9 percent of the trash we find washed up on shore is plastic.  

Wow!

A simple game of poker anyone?

Near Gregory Town - that we didn't visit because the wind created a very rolly anchorage.  We were curious how an Airstream trailer wound up on this beautiful beach.  It will have to remain a mystery, because we never made it ashore to investigate.

Yummy oatmeal butterscotch cookies.

As we prepared to move to Spanish Wells, we zipped up to Glass Window.  You might be asking yourself why this is called Glass Window.  It doesn't look like much more than a bridge over water (no pun intended).  However, it used to be an extraordinary natural stone bridge connecting North Eluethera to the Mainland of Central Eluethera.  It is the narrowest part of the island with a striking color contrast from the sapphire blue of the Atlantic on one side and the aquamarine of the Exuma Sound on the other.  The natural stone arch was destroyed by a hurricane.  A modern, man made bridge stands in its place (also repeatedly destroyed by storms).

Walking along the road to view both sides from the bridge

The Caribbean side where we anchored our boats temporarily

The Atlantic side

Peering over the edge

photo courtesy Discover-Eluethera-Bahamas.com

Ariel image of the Glass Window bridge illustrating the phenomenal contrast between the two sides.  The lighter blue is very shallow at less than 10 feet deep.  The deep blue side drops from the cliffs to 300 feet, reaching 3000 feet at the drop off.  It was dramatic to be standing on the bridge and experience the power of the pounding surf smashing into the rocks and then turn around to complete silence and calmness.