Tuesday, September 10

Sweet Summer Berries

The Berry Islands....our last group of secluded beauty, perfect bliss and no tourists before heading back to the US.  We wanted nothing more than to savor every single instant and wish on fallen stars that we could stay aboard Anything Goes forever.  The end was near and though it was inevitable, we didn't want to be reminded of what 'home' would look like.  We spent our last 2 weeks of this glorious trip in the Berry Islands.

The Berry's are a small collection of islands in the northwestern "out islands" of the Bahamas.  They are surrounded by gaping ocean waters on the south and east where the tongue of the ocean begins.  And, on the western side are miles and miles of crystal clear, shallow turquoise water stretching from top to bottom.   This was by far, the shallowest waters we had encountered so far.  These islands are so remote in fact, that there are only 2 out of the 30 islands that have any sort of facilities, like a marina, fuel and even groceries.  They are both very popular with the sport fisherman crowd because the fishing is spectacular in the Berry Islands.   What more could we ask for?   Islands all to ourselves and plenty of fish to go around!  Nevertheless, the islands are small,  mostly flat, with next to no vegetation and very shallow with narrow cuts in between and lots of of open water.  Definitely not a place you want to be in bad weather.  With that in mind, we ideally wanted a good weather window to feel comfortable.  Consequently, we had plans to spend another week in the Abaco Islands, but that said weather window presented itself and we decided to take off the following morning!  Plans, schman's, that's life living on a sailboat.  

Smooth sailing in the shallow, protected waters of the Abaco Islands, heading south to go out the cut and sail to the Berry Islands. 

Waves splash the windows in the North Cut

We strategically left at 9am in order to reach the "Hole in the wall" before nightfall.  It was a good 20 miles south to the cut and out the breezy, shallow waters of the Abaco Islands.  The hole in the wall was yet another 20 miles south,  where the fishing was supposed to be unbelievable.  We heard stories.  We were pumped.  We were like salivating dogs waiting to pounce on the multiple lines singing zzzzzzzz with every fish on.  We wanted to be there in the daylight in order to zig zag back and forth to make for some freezer filling fishin'!!  As we exited the North Cut, the opposing tide to the wind chop made for some really rough seas.  Let me rephrase that....it was hellish and scary!  I was driving to avoid getting sea sick (which works much like driving a car helps aid in car sickness).  I punched the throttle down in order to get through it as quickly as possible.  But the waves were huge, nearly breaking over the bow.  I had to slow down and soon it felt like we were standing still, proceeding to be pounded by every wave.  Did I mention that there are reefs with jagged rocks and crashing waves on either side of us?  That freaked me out and Craig had to take over, reassuring me the whole time that we would make it out without breaking the boat, running aground or going backwards!

This is the best dolphin photo yet, don't you agree?!

Ahhhh, finally.  As soon as we made it to the other side of the cut and the waves subsided, it was smooth sailing all the way.  It's a good thing the dolphins were so pretty because that was the only action we were awarded before the sun slid behind the horizon.  There were NO fish in the "hole in the wall".  Or at least they weren't hungry.  We zigged, we zagged, we chased birds, we chased Partronus....nothing.  Zip.  Zilch.  Nada!  It doesn't take a genius to realize that the morale on the boat was pre-ttee low that evening.

Approaching Frazer's Hog Cay

We forged ahead, altered course and sailed on through the night.  There was an abundance of thunderstorms coming and going, surrounding us.  It was much like playing frogger...trying to cross the road without getting hit by a car.  Trying to keep out of their way was the game and it made for an exciting night and helped pass the time quickly.  We had to sloooooowwwww way down in order to arrive in the Berry Islands at dawn (remember our rule of not entering an unfamiliar harbor in the dark).  The fact of the matter was we wanted to fish during dusk at the Hole in the Wall....which put a cramp in our style of arriving in the Berry islands during daylight.  An overnight passage was the only way to accomplish both of those.  Anyway, at one point, I had so much time to spare, I actually turned around to avoid a thunderstorm, waited for it to pass and then headed back on course.  Let me tell you how AH-Mazing it was to observe that thunderstorm on the open ocean.  It was directly in front of me, roughly 7-10 miles.  The night sky was an inky, jet black.  The few stars that filled the cloudy sky were bright enough to reveal the horizon.   In an instant, the clouds lit up with a brilliant outline of towering fluffy cotton balls, illuminated like a night light.  At precisely the same time, a razor sharp lightning bolt reached out and touched the water that irradiated a glow as far as the eye could see along the horizon.  You don't see that everyday.  I wished I had a camera inside my eyeball.  It was more beautiful than words can describe.  And, let me add that it was this beautiful because I was watching it from a distance.  Had I been right under it, not so much!

Craig and Maggie were up on duty the next morning and brought in the sails as we approached Frazer's Hog Cay, our first stop in the Berry Islands.  It almost never failed that after a bad fishing day, we'd hook a fish at the exact moment when it was most inconvenient.  And that was when we were winding down, getting ready to enter an anchorage and drop the hook.  You see, we have to turn our boat around, into the wind in order to drop the sails.  It's a much bigger production than say a boat with a furling system in which you only need to be off the wind slightly (still going the same direction).  We do realize that beggars can't be choosers, so we never complained but it was bad timing, I have to admit.  As they brought in the sails that morning, we caught a huge Mahi or something but it shook the hook free.  Darn!  Then, just like clockwork, they caught a Cero as we had to navigate the shallow and narrow entrance to Frazer's Hog Cay!  A happy but stressful arrival.

Our one and only fish of this passage.  Again, not complaining but it wasn't anywhere near the Hole in the wall (just saying')

Grilled to perfection with lemons, garlic, butter and a splash of white wine

The acclaimed "Yacht Club"

I can tell you that this was no yacht club, just a building with a bar and a few tables.  The help didn't speak english and didn't seem to understand english either, even though she nodded her head as if she knew exactly what we were talking about.  Whatever.  We did spend a rainy afternoon here talking with 3 young people that were traveling on a small sailboat.  Rachel, from Australia, joined the two young gentlemen on their journey to Nassau.  I guess you could say they were modern day gypsy's of sorts.  Their boat was falling apart and frankly, I was worried about them making it in one piece.

The dude that was really in charge of the whole yacht club operation.  He went out to the end of the dock after I ordered a conch salad and fetched and cleaned my lunch right then and there.  Now that is what I call fresh.

Olivia catches another fish off the back of our boat, this time a remora!

s/v Cascadura was waiting for us in Devil's Cay.  

We stayed one day longer at Frazer's Hog Cay due to weather and were excited to meander around the corner to Devil's Cay.  Our friends and fellow kid boat, s/v Cascadura were waiting for us.  But wait, where is Patronus going and why are they not moving....????

Oh I see, they tried to sneak around the back side into some crazy shallow water, unbeknownst to them (their chart said it was plenty deep).  Hmmm, they look like they ran aground.  Let's go help.  Everyone pictured here is hanging on the starboard side trying to list the boat to free her off the sandy bottom.  No such luck.  Eventually, we got her to list far enough by connecting a halyard to the a dinghy and pulling the boat over on its side with the dinghy motor at full throttle, Patronus was free!  Chris always said he wanted to clean the keel.  Digging her in the sand did a pretty good scrub job!

Our room with a view

Kids will be kids, playing tirelessly

Liv stakes her spot in the hammock on Cascadura

Shannon (mom on Cascadura) pulls out her jewelry making supplies....have you ever seen so many beads?  

Girl Power - busy making bracelets

Horsing around on the swing

Reese, Kate, Katie and Maggie

Another view from our room

Anchor's away in the crystal clear water

Olivia catches a Rock Hind off the back of the boat

Reese supervises while Olivia butcher's her fish

Having a good time on Cascadura.  We eventually threw some food on the table for a cruiser style potluck.

The boys fished earlier that morning and caught some fish and gathered some whelks and clams.  They were excited to build a bon fire to cook their catch, Liv included.

Prepping the clams and whelks (snails) to be cooked over an open fire.  Don't tell the kids, but they tasted like old seaweed.  Yuck.  But I give them an "A" for effort.

More sailing fun with Cascadura and Patronus

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